The process involves extracting the brake fluid out of the system, removing the caliper, cleaning the piston, rebuilding the caliper and refilling the reservoir. Follow the steps below to rebuild the rear brake caliper for a Honda CBR600 motorcycle.
Tools and Parts Needed – Honda CBR 600 Rear Caliper Rebuild
Your motorcycle’s Vehicle Identification Number, or VIN, is a 17-character identification that belongs to the vehicle’s history. The VIN contains data about the manufacturer, model year, and production location. The VIN is your motorbike’s identifying number in many ways.
Vehicle identification numbers (VINs) can be found on vehicle registrations, titles, and even insurance cards. When purchasing parts, using the VIN is a sure way to acquire exactly what you need, and a sales agent will commonly ask for it.
Furthermore, whether you’re selling or buying a used motorcycle, the VIN tells you or a potential buyer whether the bike has been in an accident, rebuilt, or even stolen, among other things.
The VIN seems to be one long string of letters and numbers, but it is really divided into three sections: the first three characters, the next six (spots four through nine), and the last eight.
The first three letters comprise the World Manufacturer Identifier. The first character represents the country code. The USA is represented by the letter “1” or “4”, Canada by the letter “2,” England by the letter “S,” and Germany by the letter “W.” The manufacturer is represented by the second digit. Kawasaki, for example, gets the letter “K,” Honda gets the letter “H,” and Suzuki gets the letter “S.” The vehicle is identified by the third character. Motorcycles are often designated with a “1” or a “A.”
The Vehicle Description Section is made up of the six characters listed below, and it describes the manufacturer’s vehicle features. Characters four through nine vary depending on the manufacturer, but they always include engine size, engine type, and even model information. The ninth digit serves as an accuracy check, ensuring that the preceding characters were approved by the manufacturer. The tenth digit represents a year code, while the eleventh digit represents a factory code.
The last eight characters of the Vehicle Identifier Section indicate the year and location of manufacture, as well as the serial number.
The digits 0 through 9 and letters A to Z are used, with the exception of I, O, and Q, which are used to avoid confusion with the numerals 1 and 0. There are no additional characters used than letters and numerals.
For just $14.95, you may get a VIN checked from vincheckup.com, which is important for prior accident histories.
The VIN is usually located on the steering neck of motorcycles and dirt bikes, but it may also be found on the motor around the bottom of the cylinders. Turn the handlebars to the left and look at the right side of the frame where the steering head is located. The inscription is engraved vertically on the metal.
From 2015 to the present, this is the maintenance plan with corresponding service intervals for the Kawasaki Versys 650 Mk3.
The Versys 650 has seen a few major improvements during its lifetime, but the engine and basic design have remained substantially the same (though a few parts have changed).
Mk1 2007-2009: The original! A well-received bike, just thought of as a little buzzy.
Mk2 2010-2014: Updated fairing (still a stacked headlight), rubber engine mounts and foot-pegs to reduce vibration. Optional (standard in some markets) ABS and heated grips.
Parts and maintenance for the Gen 1 and Gen 2 are quite similar. You can find the Versys 650 Mk1 and the Versys 650 Mk2 maintenance schedules in their respective service manuals on sale here.
Gen 3 2015+: Re-tuned engine for 3 more kW (5 more hp), new look (twin headlights) with adjustable windscreen, updated front Showa suspension and rear KYB shock with remote pre-load adjuster, standard ABS, updated front Nissin brakes and 30mm larger rear disc
In the United States, the 2015 model is also available as an LT (“Light Touring”) variant, with hand guards and large side baggage that can fit a helmet in each case.
All variants of the Kawasaki Versys 650 have featured a fuel-injected 649cc parallel twin from its stablemate the Ninja 650 at its heart, producing a modest 50 kW (70hp) not too far up in the rpm range. It has enough power to keep you hustling at highway speeds (far into the double digits with plenty of power for passing — but you may need to downshift if you’re carrying a passenger).
The Kawasaki Versys 650 is only offered in select areas as a low-power learner-compliant model. The maintenance for these versions is same.
What you need to service the Kawasaki Versys 650
The following consumables and components are required for servicing the Kawasaki Versys 650.
Versys 650 owners are very serious home maintenance types, but if you’re lacking in basic tools, take a look at our list of maintenance items to see what more you could need. Partzilla.com has these components at a very reasonable price.
Part
Kawasaki Versys 650 Spec
Oil
You need 1.6-1.8L of SAE 10W-40 engine oil “with API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 rating”, preferably Kawasaki 10W-40 Engine Oil.
Don’t over-torque the drain bolt (spec is 30 Nm/22 lb-ft per the manual) — use a torque wrench if you don’t have experience with how much torque is enough.
Oil filter
Oil filter is part 16097-0008, or you can use Hiflofiltro HF303RC. Torque for oil filter is 17.5 Nm (12.9 ft-lb) (use a torque wrench, and it’s easier on the K&N one)
Front brake pads
Get double-sintered EBC brake pads for better bite and wear. You need FA142HH (get 2 pairs).
Rear brake pads
Get double-sintered EBC brake pads for better bite and wear. You need a different part for year 2015 only. Year 2015 (only): FA140HH Years 2016+: FA174HH
Spark plugs
NGK CR9EIA-9, with a spark plug gap of 0.8-0.9mm (use a spark plug gapping tool), torqued to 15 Nm or 11 ft-lb (use a torque wrench)
Air filter
Use the K&N drop-in equivalent. The part number is KA-6415.
Cable lubricant
Remember to lubricate your clutch cable (and brake cables if you have them) with a cable lubricant. Protect All Cable Life is a good general-purpose lubricant.
Chain lubricant
The chain needs to be lubricated every 600 km/400 miles (or more, if it gets wet/dirty). Motul chain paste is cheap and well-loved.
Brake fluid
Spec is to use DOT-4 brake fluid.
Coolant
Use nitrate-free, phosphate-free, ethylene glycol-based coolant with anti-corrosion inhibitors, e.g. Valvoline Zerex G05
Grease
Use a lithium soap-based grease for all the important greasing points.
Consumables for servicing the Kawasaki Versys 650 motorcycle
Maintenance Schedule for Kawasaki Versys 650
The maintenance plan for the Kawasaki Versys 650 from 2015 onwards is shown below. It has been simplified for exhibition purposes and to remove extraneous complexity. While the fundamental motorbike remained same from 2015 to 2018, the maintenance plan became much easier to follow beginning in 2018. That format is followed by the table below.
It has the same basic material as the previous model Versys 650, with only a few intervals modified.
The list of maintenance procedures must be performed on this motorbike is as follows, with a time or distance interval — whichever comes first.
For higher odometer readings, repeat at the frequency interval established here.
(*C) Service these items (oil, air filter, chain etc.) more frequently when operating in severe conditions: dusty, wet, muddy, high speed, or frequent starting/stopping.
km x 1000
1
12
24
36
48
mi x 1000
0.6
7.6
15.2
22.8
30.4
Air cleaner element (*C) (Part KA-6415) (Note: earlier schedules recommended every 18K km)
R
R
R
R
Idle speed
I
I
I
I
I
Throttle control system (smooth return)
I
I
I
I
I
Year, I
Engine vacuum synchronization
I
I
I
I
Fuel system
I
I
I
I
I
Year, I
Fuel filter (Note: Not mentioned in some earlier schedules)
R
R
Fuel hoses
5 years, R
Evaporative emission control system (CA only)
I
I
Coolant level
I
I
I
I
I
Cooling system
I
I
I
I
I
Year, I
Coolant, water hoses, and O-rings (Coolant: Honda Coolant, it’s high-quality)
Tyre size and tyre pressure for the Kawasaki Versys 650
The Kawasaki Versys 650 has the following tyres, tyre sizes, and pressures.
Tyre
Size
Tyre pressure
Front
120/70 ZR17 M/C (58W)
225 kPa/32psi
Rear
160/60 ZR17 M/C (69W)
250 kPa/36psi
Tyre sizes and tyre pressures for the Versys 650 (2015+)
The tyres that came with the Versys 650 in 2015 and later are Dunlop D222, however other sport-touring tyres would work just as well.
Manual for the Kawasaki Versys 650 (2015+)
The above maintenance table comes from the 2021 Kawasaki Versys 650.
It has the same essential features as the 2015 model, but the schedule has been increased to 48,000 km. Despite having the same parts, some goods require more or less service.
E.g.
The 2015 Versys 650 required the air cleaner to be changed every 18,000 km (11.4K miles). The 2021 Versys 650 recommends changing the filter more often, at 12,000 km (7.6K miles)
The 2021 Versys 650’s schedule recommends changing the fuel filter every 24,000 km. The 2015’s schedule doesn’t mention it.
In conclusion, changing the air filter more or less frequently isn’t going to hurt, but replacing the fuel filter is an excellent addition to the timetable.
There are a few different alternatives for servicing your Suzuki Hayabusa GSX-R 1300R. Bring it to an official Suzuki workshop and pay the expensive fee, or bring it to a generic workshop and risk not knowing anything about your Hayabusa or the model, or fix it yourself.
Personally, I favor the later choice because it is the least expensive and allows me to learn more about my bike each time. However, we are not all born technicians, and a little outside assistance is always appreciated when it comes to maintenance your motorbike.
There are several manuals available, such as Haynes, Clymer, and OEM Manuals from the manufacturer.
I dislike Haynes and Clymer manuals since they are often incomplete, and I will always prefer the OEM Manufacturer workshop manual. It’s a little more complex, but if you’re serious about maintenance your bike, I highly recommend taking this course.
These manuals are now available in both hard copy and PDF format. Paper books are my least favorite since they don’t age well, become dirty, and are bad for the environment. They are also more pricey.
Suzuki Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF
In my opinion, the finest workshop manual is the OEM Workshop Manual from the manufacturer, which is available in PDF format. Each generation of the Suzuki Hayabusa will have its own model. To minimize any misunderstanding, I’ve included a link to the right handbook for each GSX-R1300R model below.
I hope you found this brief introduction to Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF (and other workshop manuals in general) useful. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you would like to see additional posts in our blog area.
All motorcycles, including the Suzuki GSXR, require periodic maintenance to function properly and to avoid engine wear at high RPMs.
Oil changes are one of the most fundamental service routines for a motorcycle, and they are an important maintenance work that you can do fast yourself to ensure that your Suzuki motorbike runs at its peak.
To learn how to change the oil on a GSXR 1300, follow the step-by-step instructions below and watch the video at the conclusion of the article.
Tools and Parts Needed – Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Oil Change
Warm up the oil by running the engine for a minute or two. It thins it out and makes draining simpler.
Step 2.
Remove the oil fill lid to allow the engine to breathe while draining the oil, making it easier to drain the oil.
Step 3.
Remove the seven 4mm Allen screws and the bottom bolt holding the right side fairing in place. Then, remove the fairing to have access to the oil filter and drain bolt.
Remove the drain bolt with a 17mm socket and place a drain pan below the engine.
NOTE: Keep track of the crush washeron the bolt, and replace it if it’s damaged or missing.
Step 5.
After the oil has completed draining, replace the drain bolt and its crush washer, and twist the drain bolt to 16.5 foot-pounds.
Step 6.
Use a 65mm oil filter wrench to remove the oil filter, which is located on the front of the engine, behind the exhaust.
Step 7.
To prepare the new oil filter for installation, rub a little oil over the gasket at the top of the filter with your finger. This makes removal easier the following time.
Step 8.
Replace the oil filter and torque it to 14.5 foot-pounds.
Step 9.
Spray a little amount of contact cleaner on the exhaust to remove any extra oil that has been spilt on it.
NOTE: If oil has leaked, do not miss this step since any excess oil on the exhaust will cause smoke.
Step 10.
Replace the fairing in the same manner that you removed it.
NOTE: 3.3 quarts of 10W40 motorcycle oil is recommended by Suzuki. Because automobile oil will cause your wet clutch system to slide, only use motorcycle oil.
Step 12.
Replace the fill cap, then restart the engine for a few minutes to circulate the oil. Next, turn off the engine and inspect the sight glass. finish the
NOTE: Replace the fill cap, then restart the engine for a few minutes to circulate the oil. Next, turn off the engine and inspect the sight glass. finish the
The steps for changing the oil on a Suzuki motorbike are the same or very similar.
Repairs and maintenance for your motorcycle are the most expensive part of owning a motorcycle. It is more expensive than insurance or petrol.
Any mechanical device needs to be properly maintained to run smoothly and over a long period of time. Any mechanical equipment must be properly maintained in order to work smoothly and for an extended length of time. Motorcycles are no different. While components might be expensive, with a little investigation, you can obtain inexpensive original parts. On that note, I urge that you look at Partzilla.com.
However, if you examine the workshop invoices, you will see that, on average, half of the cost is labor.
It is true that hardly everyone can become a mechanic overnight. Nevertheless, there are easy maintenance procedures you can perform on your bike that will save you hundreds of dollars if you invest a little time and effort and have the correct service handbook for your ride.
It will also provide you with the fundamental knowledge and references you need to ask smart questions of your mechanics, as well as assist you recognize unscrupulous workshops that sadly exist in the area and charge for things you don’t need.
Whether you ride a cruiser, a sports bike, or a dirt bike, one thing is certain: you must maintain it on a regular basis in order to keep it safe and function well.
So some of you will find it more convenient to bring the bike to the workshop (or have them pick it up) and have a perfectly working bike appear out of nowhere. There will be no headaches, no soiled hands, and no time spent.
Sounds ideal?
Wrong!
It might be frightening at first to open and adjust anything on a machine capable of reaching speeds of over 100mph on those wonderful curving roads. However, knowing how your bike works and what you need to do to keep it in good condition is essential for all riders. And it will also help you ride better.
The last thing you want is to get your bike back from a sloppy technician who forgot to tighten that one screw or used the wrong oil. Knowing the fundamentals will undoubtedly assist you in maintaining the greatest levels of safety.
There are several motorcycle repair costs associated with owning a motorcycle. However, doing regular maintenance at the intervals specified in your service manual will greatly reduce total repair expenses for your bike and enhance your riding experience.
When you first start riding, you may not know how much care your motorbike need. You may save money on motorbike repairs if you learn how to properly care for the parts.
Parts might be pricey, but here’s a hint if you own a Japanese brand. We normally get our components from Partzilla, which has shown to be the greatest site for ordering parts at the most affordable costs. They do sell original and OEM components. I would always recommend ordering basic maintenance components in advance (brake pads, oil filter, etc.) so you don’t have to wait for them to be sent when you need them. Because all part numbers are given in your repair manual, you can’t go wrong.
If you go through the hassle of servicing your motorcycle yourself, you may use the money you save towards more vital repairs.
Making the decision to fix your bike yourself will necessitate a one-time expenditure that will show to be quite advantageous over time.
Aside from the most important repair manual, which you can purchase here at the greatest price, you’ll need a set of tools (which are normally indicated in the service manual) and a space to work on the repairs.
Don’t attempt to cut corners on the tools. It is worthwhile to spend a little extra money on excellent brands that you will keep for the rest of your life. Cheap tools are not only a lousy long-term investment, but they may also be hazardous.
A maintenance table in your workshop manual will detail everything you need to check/replace on your bike and when. I printed and laminated the tables so that I could use them again and again while effortlessly wiping away the oil. It’s a good idea to schedule the major repair once the riding season is ended.
When it comes to the site where you will execute your repairs, whether it is your garage or somewhere else, make sure it is properly ventilated, has an average temperature, and is dust-free. I prefer to check my service manuals on an old tablet (I have fixed it on a small stand with wheels that I can move around and protected it with a rugged cover).
I order the particular components I need and print the necessary sections of the repair manual whenever I want to work on my bike. When at all feasible, I try to have everything ready and arranged before beginning to remove any screws.
I used to always give my bike to service until one day the mechanic put the wrong oil by accident. Since then I very much prefer to service my bike myself, so I started looking for a repair manual. I wasn’t convinced about a PDF version at first, but given it was significantly cheaper than a printed version, I gave it a go. Best decision in my life! I just print the pages I need when I service my bike, without worrying about getting them greasy. I would definitely recommend it.
