Author: Service Manuals

Before you put the kickstand away for the season, go through our maintenance checklist and use it as a guide to give your bike a thorough check.

It doesn’t take long, and the peace of mind you will have from knowing you inspected your ride from head to toe will more than pay for itself. An hour spent in your garage beats an hour spent on the roadside troubleshooting or waiting for AMA service.

If you follow the motorcycle maintenance schedule in your service manual (the most important tool in your garage) and did your homework before storing your bike for the winter, you will breeze through this list. So roll up your sleeves and start working on all that is needed to make your motorcycle road-ready for the season.

1. Visual inspection

When was the last time you went over every element of your bike? Everything on a vehicle wears down gradually, making even worn-out components impossible to see in regular use. Simply shifting your attitude into “see anything weird” mode might expose flaws that demand care before they become serious, ride-stopping difficulties.

Look for any leaks. Oil and dirt streaks down the fork indicate a failing fork seal. Drips from beneath the bike must be inspected. Is that liquid coolant? Oil? Fuel? Give it a smell, then trace it back to its source. If the leak has been there for some time, you may need to clean up your motorcycle’s nether regions to pinpoint the source.

Look for signs of wear or interference at pivot points and moving components (kickstand pivots, swing-arm, and suspension linkages are usually neglected). Hit any zerk fittings with your grease gun until clean grease comes out the other end of the cavity, and make a note of any bushings or bearings that need to be investigated further or replaced.

Turn on the light. Check your lights and horn, and make sure your registration and insurance are up to date. Is your battery dying or dead? You will need to re-energize the system before checking your signals.

2. Power source

If you have been using a maintenance charger, your battery should be fully charged. If not, connect one immediately. If the battery charges completely, that’s a positive indication, but it doesn’t mean it won’t die halfway through your first big ride of the season.

A multi-meter can provide a good picture of your battery’s overall health (you want to see more than 12.5 V DC at the terminals with the key off) but the choice of champions is a battery tester that can test cranking amps against the number you punch in from the CCA rating stickered on the battery. Aside from testing the terminals for standing voltage, you may do a few more checks with a multi-meter.

Even if you don’t have any fancy meters, you should be able to tell whether your battery is starting to fail by how easily it turns your engine on, and its age. The production date is also printed on the sticker, and if yours is approaching five years old, you should consider replacing it. It’s preferable to replace a battery on your own terms rather than relying on a shop or dealership and perhaps adding the expense of a tow to the repair fee.

To avoid corrosion, clean your terminals and coat them with dielectric grease. This is also an excellent opportunity to open your fuse box and examine your fuses. Check your spares and slip a couple of extras in if there’s space. A blown fuse is one of the most vexing reasons for having to have a bike towed.

3. Wheels and tires

It is impossible to overestimate the significance of tire condition. We only get 2, and the degree of faith necessary to lean into the first bend is enormous. While age must be taken into account, it is not the only — and certainly not the most significant — element in establishing a tire’s road-worthiness.

Motorcycle tires have a longer life expectancy than you may assume, despite the widespread fear of compulsive date-code checks. Tire makers set a “sell by” date of five years, anticipating years of use after that. So, if you buy a new tire and discover it was manufactured a year or two ago, keep in mind that it still has its entire life ahead of it. On a frequently ridden motorcycle, you are unlikely to see a set expire of old age. Still, keep the production date in mind when you inspect the rubber for dry rot, fractures, or excessive hardness from oxidation.

The most respectable death of a motorbike tire is also its most common: wear. If your tire features wear indications, it should be easy to see when the wear bar (placed in a sipe or groove) goes flush with the tire’s surface. If you are unsure, examine the remaining tread depth in the most worn section of the tire (almost always the center). If you require new tires, remember to include replacement valve stems (or inner tubes) and balancing weights (if you plan to mount and balance yourself). Wheel weights sometimes slip off; make sure yours are still in place. You should also inspect your wheel bearings, but first, get your wheels off the ground.

If you don’t already have a raise, jack, or Pit Bull-style front and rear stands, a Bursig lift would be a good option. You can acquire an all-in-one, space-saving gadget that can not only raise your entire motorbike off the garage floor but also dolly it about safely by yourself for roughly the same price as front and rear stands or a hydraulic motorcycle jack.

You are ready to start once you’ve raised at least the front end of your motorcycle. It is possible to identify worn wheel bearings without disassembling the vehicle. To begin, firmly grasp each wheel on either side and shake to check for excessive play (a giveaway that your bearings are toast). If everything seems snug, spin each wheel to test rolling resistance. Do not expect the wheel to spin all day with the brake assembly still in place — pads drag lightly even when not engaged, and the chain, belt, or shaft final drive adds additional drag at the rear wheel — but you should be able to tell by hand whether the wheel rolls smoothly or feels crunchy on its bearings.

4. Final Drive

Keep an eye on your drive chain or belt as you move the back wheel. (If you have a shaft and don’t know how old the gear oil is, change it immediately!). First, inspect for any binding, seized links, or excessive chain and sprocket wear that would suggest it’s time to replace the chain and sprocket. If everything appears to be in order, clean your chain with a solvent and brush before lubricating it. Check chain alignment using an alignment tool (do not rely solely on the hatch markings on your axle blocks or swing-arm if you have them) and tension with a gauge. Your handbook will include specifications for tension and wear, which you may use to determine if the chain needs to be changed.

Look for cracks, wear, or stray cords if you have a belt drive. Replace the belt if it seems glossy or if any teeth are chunked out. Drive belts survive a long time, but you should replace them before they’re hanging by a thread. A failing belt will not only leave you stuck but also have a history of breaking under acceleration (think merging onto a highway in front of tractor-trailers).

If your belt passes the visual examination, consult your service manual for specifications before checking belt tension with a gauge. It is well worth the money (and is much more civilized than hanging jogging weights off the belt with wire or zip ties and measuring deflection). After making any required adjustments, rotate the entire shooting match a few times and measure once again.

5. Disc brakes

While your bike is still in the air, you can inspect your brake pads with the tires on the ground, but it’s a bit simpler. You may also examine your rotors for warping by turning your wheels. You should also feel the rotor’s surface for any scoring and visually examine it for glazing. Don’t be alarmed if you notice some mild surface rust. If your bike has been resting for a while, this is entirely natural and will go away as soon as you use the brakes, but I prefer to clean them with brake cleaner to make me feel better.

Next, take note of how much meat remains on the pads and check if they are wearing evenly.

To ensure that they are still safe to run, compare the remaining depth of the pad material to the specification in your service manual. Trying to use up every last bit of a brake pad is a short-sighted tactic since you risk damaging your rotors or failing to stop if you wear down to the backing plate.

Examine your brake lines for evidence of wear or age as well. Rubber brake lines do not survive very long, so even if your bike is just five or ten years old, it may be time to retire them. New stainless steel lines will significantly enhance brake feel and control. Lines are more usually overlooked than brake fluid. Check your service manual for a replacement interval. However, for those that ride hard (track days?) or follow aggressive maintenance plans, change it every other season or if the fluid becomes hot.

6. Fluids

Brake fluid isn’t the only frequently neglected fluid for refreshing. What is the age of your coolant? Although your machine’s maintenance periods may vary, the fresh coolant should be added every other season (check the manual). Thorough water cleanses, or even a simple drain and fill, will go a long way toward avoiding corrosion within your cooling system. (Installing a new radiator cap at the same time is an inexpensive insurance policy.)

I’m looking at new motor oil and filter, main fluid, and trans fluid before my first trip of the year. Even if you are not quite at your mileage interval, it never hurts to start early so you are ready for the season. When it comes to time, you should consider the age of the oil as well as the mileage. If you have several motorcycles or just don’t put a lot of miles on your machine, changing the oil at least once a season ensures that it has been done and that you don’t have old, tainted oil in your cases. Lower mileage frequently correlates to a lot of short rides, which implies a lot of heat cycling to attract moisture condensation, which is what truly tears down oil. Consider your style of riding when selecting whether to replace your oil.

7. Filters

Always use a fresh oil filter, and keep track of fuel and air filter recharge or replacement. My bike requires air filter service every 5,000 miles and a fuel filter every 25,000 miles. Check your workshop manual or a parts diagram; there might be another gasoline screen in the petcock or fuel pump pickup that has to be replaced. Check if your exhaust has fiberglass packing (cotton candy pouring out of your exhaust tip is a dead giveaway if your packing is burnt). This is not an off-road occurrence, albeit dirt bike intervals are often significantly shorter (a matter of hours, not miles, especially for two-strokes, where oil is a factor on top of heat). When you recharge or replace the air filter, repack the muffler. What goes in must necessarily come out, right?

8. Controls

Check and adjust your clutch and throttle for smooth operation. With cable lube and this handy tool, ease your clutch and throttle cables, then adjust your push and pull cables until the throttle begins to open and returns to idle position on its own. If your strong clutch pull or sticky throttle cannot be lubricated or adjusted, search for interference on the lever or throttle tube itself, as well as binding caused by incorrect cable routing. Replace the cables if they are worn.

Sit on the bike and check if your mirrors have come free. Check for cable and electrical interference or strain, as well as notchiness in the steering head bearings, by turning the handlebar lock to lock. Check that your shifter and brake pedal are indexed correctly. You may have become accustomed to a less-than-ideal position last season; modify now before you develop that muscle memory again. Regardless of whether you alter anything, be sure the brake and shifter are tight (thread locker is my old friend). Consider yourself fortunate if you have never had a shift lever come free and destroy the spline shaft (it is a very invasive, labor-intensive job that costs a lot).

9. Last check

Torque all of your key fasteners, including handlebar and triple clamps, axle bolts and adjusters, and motor mounts. Check your oil and coolant levels again. Check that you tightened anything back down that you disturbed during your examination. Take out a tire gauge and check the pressure. If you charged your battery while inspecting the rest of the bike, try your lights and horn immediately. Finally, start it up and you are set for a test drive to the gas station for some new gasoline! Remember to let your engine warm up before accelerating, and that your tires may still be cold and sticky.

That’s all there is to it. Now you can sit back and enjoy the ride!

An owner’s manual (also known as an instruction manual, user’s handbook, rider’s manual or owner’s handbook) is a book or booklet that comes with practically all technologically advanced consumer items such as motorcycles, motorbikes, scooters, and two-wheelers. The following information is normally included in the owner’s manual:

• For liability considerations, safety instructions can be comprehensive, typically containing cautions against performing activities that are ill-advised for device longevity or general user safety.
  
• Normal or planned operations are described in these instructions.
  
• Instructions for maintenance.
  
• Troubleshooting instructions are provided in the event that the bike does not function as planned.
  
• Service centers; for when the product has to be repaired by a factory-authorized technician.
  
• Information about regulatory code compliance, such as safety or hazards.
  
• Technical standards for motorcycles.
  
• Warranty information; occasionally supplied on a separate sheet.

Until the last decade or two of the twentieth century, it was common for an owner’s manual to include detailed repair information, such as a circuit diagram; however, as products became more complex, this information was gradually relegated to specialized service manuals, or omitted entirely, as devices became too cheap to repair economically.

Many brands provide PDF files of manuals that may be read or downloaded for free from their websites. Here are the list of the brand we cover on this site, with direct links to their downloadable owner manuals.

• Aprilia Maintenance Booklet (must enter your details including the VIN number of the bike)
• BMW Motorrad Owner’s Handbook (requires that you enter the chassis number of your ride to download the proper manual)
• Ducati Owner’s Manual (simply select the Family, Model and Year from the dropdown)
• Honda Owner’s Manual (select the year, segment, category and model from the menu)
• Hyosung Owner’s Manual (list of manuals, right click to download)
• Indian Motorcycles Owner’s Manual (select brand, year and model from the dropdown)
• Kawasaki Owner’s Manual (must register on their website and add your vehicle)
• Moto Guzzi User and Maintenance Booklet (must enter your details including the VIN number of the bike)
• Royal Enfield Owner’s Manual (select your model from the list and download)
• Suzuki (You will not find a link here because Suzuki it is the only manufacturer that we know which actually charges for their owner’s manuals!)
• Triumph Owner’s Handbook (just select your model from their menu)
• Yamaha Owner’s Manual (you can search by model, VIN or manual part number)

If your brand is not listed here, please feel free to reach out to us and we will make sure to add it to the list.

Ride safe!

Your motorcycle’s Vehicle Identification Number, or VIN, is a 17-character identification that belongs to the vehicle’s history. The VIN contains data about the manufacturer, model year, and production location. The VIN is your motorbike’s identifying number in many ways.

Vehicle identification numbers (VINs) can be found on vehicle registrations, titles, and even insurance cards. When purchasing parts, using the VIN is a sure way to acquire exactly what you need, and a sales agent will commonly ask for it.

Furthermore, whether you’re selling or buying a used motorcycle, the VIN tells you or a potential buyer whether the bike has been in an accident, rebuilt, or even stolen, among other things.

The VIN seems to be one long string of letters and numbers, but it is really divided into three sections: the first three characters, the next six (spots four through nine), and the last eight.

The first three letters comprise the World Manufacturer Identifier. The first character represents the country code. The USA is represented by the letter “1” or “4”, Canada by the letter “2,” England by the letter “S,” and Germany by the letter “W.” The manufacturer is represented by the second digit. Kawasaki, for example, gets the letter “K,” Honda gets the letter “H,” and Suzuki gets the letter “S.” The vehicle is identified by the third character. Motorcycles are often designated with a “1” or a “A.”

The Vehicle Description Section is made up of the six characters listed below, and it describes the manufacturer’s vehicle features. Characters four through nine vary depending on the manufacturer, but they always include engine size, engine type, and even model information. The ninth digit serves as an accuracy check, ensuring that the preceding characters were approved by the manufacturer. The tenth digit represents a year code, while the eleventh digit represents a factory code.

The last eight characters of the Vehicle Identifier Section indicate the year and location of manufacture, as well as the serial number.

The digits 0 through 9 and letters A to Z are used, with the exception of I, O, and Q, which are used to avoid confusion with the numerals 1 and 0. There are no additional characters used than letters and numerals.

For just $14.95, you may get a VIN checked from vincheckup.com, which is important for prior accident histories.

Your report will include the following:

• Accident History
• Lease & Taxi Use
• Title Information
• Hidden Damage
• Liens
• Junk & Salvage
• Mileage Rollback
• Manufacture’s Recall History
• Sale Records
• Lemon Check
• Theft & Recovery
• Owner History

The VIN is usually located on the steering neck of motorcycles and dirt bikes, but it may also be found on the motor around the bottom of the cylinders. Turn the handlebars to the left and look at the right side of the frame where the steering head is located. The inscription is engraved vertically on the metal.

Ride safe.

There are a few different alternatives for servicing your Suzuki Hayabusa GSX-R 1300R. Bring it to an official Suzuki workshop and pay the expensive fee, or bring it to a generic workshop and risk not knowing anything about your Hayabusa or the model, or fix it yourself.

Personally, I favor the later choice because it is the least expensive and allows me to learn more about my bike each time. However, we are not all born technicians, and a little outside assistance is always appreciated when it comes to maintenance your motorbike.

There are several manuals available, such as Haynes, Clymer, and OEM Manuals from the manufacturer.

I dislike Haynes and Clymer manuals since they are often incomplete, and I will always prefer the OEM Manufacturer workshop manual. It’s a little more complex, but if you’re serious about maintenance your bike, I highly recommend taking this course.

These manuals are now available in both hard copy and PDF format. Paper books are my least favorite since they don’t age well, become dirty, and are bad for the environment. They are also more pricey.

Suzuki Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF

In my opinion, the finest workshop manual is the OEM Workshop Manual from the manufacturer, which is available in PDF format. Each generation of the Suzuki Hayabusa will have its own model. To minimize any misunderstanding, I’ve included a link to the right handbook for each GSX-R1300R model below.

Hayabusa First Generation Repair Manual PDF

• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 1997
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 1998
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 1999
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2000
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2001
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2002
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2003
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2004
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2005
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2006
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2007

Hayabusa Second Generation Repair Manual PDF

• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2008
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2009
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2010
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2011
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2012
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2013
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2014
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2015
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2016
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2017
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2018
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2019
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2020

Hayabusa Third Generation Repair Manual PDF

• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2021 (coming soon)
• Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF for the Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Model 2022 (coming soon)

A bit of Eye Candy for the Suzuki Hayabusa GSX-R1300R

I hope you found this brief introduction to Hayabusa Repair Manual PDF (and other workshop manuals in general) useful. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you would like to see additional posts in our blog area.

Be well and ride safe!

All motorcycles, including the Suzuki GSXR, require periodic maintenance to function properly and to avoid engine wear at high RPMs.

Oil changes are one of the most fundamental service routines for a motorcycle, and they are an important maintenance work that you can do fast yourself to ensure that your Suzuki motorbike runs at its peak.

To learn how to change the oil on a GSXR 1300, follow the step-by-step instructions below and watch the video at the conclusion of the article.

Tools and Parts Needed – Suzuki GSX-R 1300 Oil Change

Tools

• 3/8th ratchet
• Torque wrench
• 17mm socket
• 65mm oil filter wrench
• Suzuki GSX-R 1300 1st gen. service manual

Parts

• Suzuki GSX-R 1300 oil filter
• Ecstar 10W40 motorcycle engine oil (4 quarts)

Oil Change on a Suzuki GSXR 1300

Step 1. Warm up the oil by running the engine for a minute or two. It thins it out and makes draining simpler.

Step 2. Remove the oil fill lid to allow the engine to breathe while draining the oil, making it easier to drain the oil.

Step 3. Remove the seven 4mm Allen screws and the bottom bolt holding the right side fairing in place. Then, remove the fairing to have access to the oil filter and drain bolt.

PRO TIP: Check out the the GSXR 1300R fairing diagram to see where the Allens are located.

Step 4. Remove the drain bolt with a 17mm socket and place a drain pan below the engine.

NOTE: Keep track of the crush washer on the bolt, and replace it if it’s damaged or missing. 

Step 5. After the oil has completed draining, replace the drain bolt and its crush washer, and twist the drain bolt to 16.5 foot-pounds.

Step 6. Use a 65mm oil filter wrench to remove the oil filter, which is located on the front of the engine, behind the exhaust. 

Step 7. To prepare the new oil filter for installation, rub a little oil over the gasket at the top of the filter with your finger. This makes removal easier the following time.

Step 8. Replace the oil filter and torque it to 14.5 foot-pounds.

Step 9. Spray a little amount of contact cleaner on the exhaust to remove any extra oil that has been spilt on it.

NOTE: If oil has leaked, do not miss this step since any excess oil on the exhaust will cause smoke.

Step 10. Replace the fairing in the same manner that you removed it.

Step 11. Fill the unit with motorcycle engine oil. 

NOTE: 3.3 quarts of 10W40 motorcycle oil is recommended by Suzuki. Because automobile oil will cause your wet clutch system to slide, only use motorcycle oil.

Step 12. Replace the fill cap, then restart the engine for a few minutes to circulate the oil. Next, turn off the engine and inspect the sight glass. finish the

NOTE: Replace the fill cap, then restart the engine for a few minutes to circulate the oil. Next, turn off the engine and inspect the sight glass. finish the

The steps for changing the oil on a Suzuki motorbike are the same or very similar.

Source: Partzilla

Be well and ride safe!

Repairs and maintenance for your motorcycle are the most expensive part of owning a motorcycle. It is more expensive than insurance or petrol.

Any mechanical device needs to be properly maintained to run smoothly and over a long period of time. Any mechanical equipment must be properly maintained in order to work smoothly and for an extended length of time. Motorcycles are no different. While components might be expensive, with a little investigation, you can obtain inexpensive original parts. On that note, I urge that you look at Partzilla.com.

However, if you examine the workshop invoices, you will see that, on average, half of the cost is labor.

It is true that hardly everyone can become a mechanic overnight. Nevertheless, there are easy maintenance procedures you can perform on your bike that will save you hundreds of dollars if you invest a little time and effort and have the correct service handbook for your ride.

It will also provide you with the fundamental knowledge and references you need to ask smart questions of your mechanics, as well as assist you recognize unscrupulous workshops that sadly exist in the area and charge for things you don’t need.

Be well and ride safe!

Whether you ride a cruiser, a sports bike, or a dirt bike, one thing is certain: you must maintain it on a regular basis in order to keep it safe and function well.

So some of you will find it more convenient to bring the bike to the workshop (or have them pick it up) and have a perfectly working bike appear out of nowhere. There will be no headaches, no soiled hands, and no time spent.

Sounds ideal?

Wrong!

It might be frightening at first to open and adjust anything on a machine capable of reaching speeds of over 100mph on those wonderful curving roads. However, knowing how your bike works and what you need to do to keep it in good condition is essential for all riders. And it will also help you ride better.

The last thing you want is to get your bike back from a sloppy technician who forgot to tighten that one screw or used the wrong oil. Knowing the fundamentals will undoubtedly assist you in maintaining the greatest levels of safety.

There are several motorcycle repair costs associated with owning a motorcycle. However, doing regular maintenance at the intervals specified in your service manual will greatly reduce total repair expenses for your bike and enhance your riding experience.

When you first start riding, you may not know how much care your motorbike need. You may save money on motorbike repairs if you learn how to properly care for the parts.

Parts might be pricey, but here’s a hint if you own a Japanese brand. We normally get our components from Partzilla, which has shown to be the greatest site for ordering parts at the most affordable costs. They do sell original and OEM components. I would always recommend ordering basic maintenance components in advance (brake pads, oil filter, etc.) so you don’t have to wait for them to be sent when you need them. Because all part numbers are given in your repair manual, you can’t go wrong.

If you go through the hassle of servicing your motorcycle yourself, you may use the money you save towards more vital repairs.

Be well and ride safe!